Driving 'The Beast' through Africa
Ghana
by Isabelle Demaeght, March 22nd, 2025
Being idle in Abidjan? Waiting for our Ghanaian visa? That's not for us. We explore the city, which is home to some impressive architectural masterpieces, including the iconic Pyramid (a dilapidated residential and commercial complex) and the cathedral, where we happen to witness a major Eucharist.
Not everything goes according to plan, however. A wrong turn on foot takes us onto a ring road without a breakdown lane, which makes for an anxious moment. As if that were not enough, we are stopped for the first time - and our necessary papers are still in the apartment. Eventually, these officers respect the journey we have already taken and let us go.
Meanwhile, we have tied a big knot: The Beast is going on the ferry to Namibia, from where we will later continue our journey through Africa. Adriaan requests several quotes, and eventually we find Yusif, who will help us move forward with the shipping formalities. The boat leaves on March 19, and The Beast will travel safely in a sealed container. The sealing happens on March 17. Airline tickets will be purchased quickly.
Normally we travel around without a tight plan - the journey is the destination. But a deadline brings pressure, so we speed up the pace and drive long days.
We cross the border into Ghana not along the usual coastal route, but north. We spend our last stop before the border at the place of Hussein, who hospitably lets us spend the night at his small restaurant. There we meet Javier (from Spain), traveling from Madrid in a car with the a few defects. Adriaan, helpful as always, puts his technical skills to use and helps Javier get back on the road. Together we drive to the border.
After the (for us easy) border crossing, suddenly a lot changes. French gives way to English, and traces of the British colonial era are visible everywhere.
Via rough roads (asphalt with many potholes) we continue northward, towards Mole National Park, Ghana's largest nature reserve. Driving our own safari here is not allowed without a guide, so we adapt The Beast a bit and take a guide with us. A bull's-eye, as he immediately knows where the elephants are hiding and ensures that we can enjoy their presence for an extra long time.
Elephants continue to fascinate us - perhaps because of their imposing appearance?
Here, too, Adriaan shows his helpful nature. After days of rain, some roads have turned into mud puddles. The car of someone from the neighborhood got stuck in a mud puddle. He runs a lodge outside the park and takes in orphans. With combined efforts (but especially those of The Beast), we get his vehicle unstuck again.
On the way we make a stop at a monkey sanctuary, where monkeys are protected. However, they are a little too enthusiastic for my taste - jumping on your shoulder unexpectedly is not quite my cup of tea.
Near Kumasi, we visit a butterfly garden where as many as 400 species are said to exist. Unfortunately, we get there by sunset, and most of the butterflies have already disappeared. Still, we take a beautiful walk through the forest, with fascinating explanations from an enthusiastic guide.
The interior of Ghana is blisteringly hot. With night temperatures no longer dropping below 28°C, we decide to stay in hotels for several nights. Air conditioning and fans are not a luxury.
Arriving at the port town of Tema, we meet Yusif for the final administrative arrangements. We retire to an apartment to prepare The Beast and our luggage for the crossing. In a Chinese store - where else? - we find a huge suitcase for only €23.
With plenty of time to organize everything, I lay out subtle threads in the meantime. I keep the boys at bay while I take their girlfriends and/or their work environment in a surprise: we are coming home much earlier than expected.
After four and a half months of continuous travel, I often think about how people say - or how we used to say - I'm going to Africa. But Africa is not a country - it is an entire continent, a patchwork of countries, cultures and landscapes, each with its own character and rhythm. I enjoyed that multicolored diversity, each country in its own way. But ...
The homecoming is particularly nice.
Laurens, assigned by his employer to pick up an Italian brunette from the airport, is startled when he sees me.
It feels good to return to a bright spring sun. My first walk in the Ardennes can be done just in a T-shirt, and as if seeing it for the first time, the beauty of the landscape touches me all over again.
Sometimes I forget how rich we really are. All we have to do is turn on the tap, and fresh drinking water flows. The air we breathe is clean. There is always more than enough food, and I have a kitchen to prepare it. I am surrounded by family and friends.
Believe me, after almost 140 days of traveling through West Africa, you find yourself with both feet back on the ground. You realize how obvious these things seem to us, while for many in this world they are a rare luxury.
Due to clumsiness on the part of the shipping company agent, The Beast missed the boat and will now not be shipped to Namibia until March 24.
Adriaan will fly to Namibia when the container arrives and temporarily park The Beast somewhere until we leave for Namibia ourselves and continue our journey from there.
In the meantime, things will be quiet on my blog for a while. But no worries - for the next few months we will be available by phone or at home as usual.